By Kathleen Smith
When winter settles over Yellowstone National Park, the vast landscape takes a deep breath, the roads close, and some of the most amazing scenery and wildlife are left to be enjoyed by the few who are willing and able to access it. I should know: Working as a ski guide for Yellowstone Expedition, a small yurt camp tucked away in Yellowstone’s Hayden Valley, I’ve experienced the magic of this winter wonderland in a way few ever do. From early mornings chipping ice off snow buster vans — passenger vans outfitted with track conversion kits for snow travel — to evening skis watching coyotes fight otters for a fish dinner along the Yellowstone River, to bison warming themselves in the steam of bubbling thermal features, yurt camp is a once-in-a-lifetime experience (or for us guides, once a year)!
Blankets of snow insulate the park, providing solitude and a reprieve from the busy summer tourism season. With many of the roads closed in winter, wildlife roam more freely across the quiet landscape — yet the season still brings its own relentless challenges for survival. For those who venture in, winter in Yellowstone offers a rare, raw experience: a glimpse into the park’s wild heart when nature is both most vulnerable and most alive. Guests explore thermal basins, ski through vast meadows, canyons, and along steaming creeks, and listen to the howl of wolves echoing through the stillness.
About
Near the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, Yellowstone Expeditions’ yurt camp is a haven where adventurous outdoor enthusiasts explore the park by skis, snowshoes, snowcoaches, or through photography. Guests work with guides to personalize their experience and plan routes and skis that are aligned with their goals and abilities. Upon arrival at yurt camp, hosts and guides greet the guests, welcome them to camp, and provide the appropriate gear for each person. Guests then embark on their first cross country ski, following a trail that provides access to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River. Guides lead adventurers to a viewpoint where the Lower Mesa Falls towers over 300-feet tall. In the cold winter months, the spray from the waterfall freezes and forms an ice tower at the base. Those lucky enough may see river otters playing and sliding around on the ice, showcasing the whimsical life that exists in Yellowstone’s winters.
Back at camp, guides are bustling preparing appetizers and drinks in the main yurt. Guests, in groups no larger than 16 at full capacity, begin to get to know each other and chat with their guides about their goals for their stay in the park. Some hope to cover miles, test their endurance, and conquer long days on skis, while others are looking for casual ski outings exploring the thermal basins. Others aspire to track and photograph the Wapiti wolf pack and other wildlife, which are active and often easier to observe in winter.
Logistics
The first step is to book a stay with Yellowstone Expeditions. This can be easily done online, but don’t wait; the experiences tend to book out a few months in advance! There’s a four-day and a five-day option for staying at camp. Guests meet in West Yellowstone at the park’s West Entrance, where the snowcoach picks them up to shuttle them to basecamp. For visitors coming from far away, West Yellowstone is about a two-hour drive from the Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport and offers a variety of lodging.
The Space
The accommodations at yurt camp are nothing short of magical — like the North Pole, stepping into Santa’s village. Two large traditional style yurts are connected to form a dining and kitchen yurt where guests enjoy hearty home-cooked meals and share stories from the day. The rest of the camp is dotted with small “yurtlets” designed after Scandinavian ice fishing huts, heated by individual propane stoves and providing a cozy private space for each guest. Throughout the winter, snow piles up between the yurts, muffling the sounds of any movement or chatter from neighboring yurts and accentuating the silence.
What to Bring
Winter in Yellowstone is one of the harshest climates I have ever experienced. Temperatures are rarely above 0 degrees Fahrenheit, and sometimes plummet to minus 60 degrees. On days where temperatures are colder than minus 30 degrees, we wait for the sun to come out before we ski. Yellowstone Expeditions provides a great packing list before arriving at camp, but I have included a few recommendations for items I couldn’t live without during winters in the park.
- Layers: Top and bottom base layers, fleeces, and insulated outerwear will keep you comfortable on the trail.
- Extra gloves and socks: Cold feet/hands are the worst. Come prepared with extras of everything — but especially a second pair of warm gloves or mittens and more socks than you would think!
- Thermos: A hot sip of tea, hot chocolate or coffee on the trail is a luxury in the harsh Yellowstone winter.
- Cozy yurtwear: Slippers and warm, comfortable clothes to wear as you sit around the fire and enjoy the evenings at camp.
- Something to document your trip: While we spend a lot of time basking in the moment, having a camera and/or a journal to keep a record of this special experience will help you enjoy it later. I know I love to flip through old photos from my time out here.
Kathleen Smith is an adventurous girl based out of Bozeman, Montana. She spends her summers as a whitewater raft guide, her shoulder seasons chasing rivers and her winters as a ski patroller. She loves all things water, frozen or melted!
