Access

The Stateline Yurt, named for its positioning at 7,200 feet on the Idaho/Montana border atop Lost Trail Pass, is a Mongolian-style yurt that serves as a cushy basecamp for a barely touched swath of the region’s iconic skiing paradise. Owned and operated by the Salmon, Idaho-based Wilderness River Outfitters, the yurt is accessed from the base of Lost Trail Ski Area, which makes it a perfect excuse to spend a day at this mom-and-pop powder haven on either end of your backcountry excursion. From Thursday to Sunday, when the ski area is open, yurt goers can catch a ride on a chairlift to the top of the ridge. From there, it’s a quick mile-plus traverse to Stateline. Depending on what luxuries you’ve allowed to weigh down your pack, as well as conditions (often blizzarding and windy—but makes for great turns later!), this varies from a scenic dash to your destination, to a memorable side-cutting adventure that makes arrival to the yurt that much sweeter.

The Space

Despite being in the backcountry, Stateline doesn’t leave much to be desired in the way of amenities. At 20 feet in diameter, it’s cozy but roomy enough for up to six folks with plenty of room to hang wet gear, stay far enough away from your friend’s stinky wool socks, and put up a disco ball for a post-ski dance party—or whatever you’re into. The yurt is well stocked with every kitchen gadget and gizmo you might need, solar lights and propane lanterns, two wide bunk beds and two cots, a wood-burning stove with lots of wood, and my personal favorite amenity: an outdoor pit toilet with the best commode view you’ll ever have. A wood deck (that may require a bit of shoveling) extends off the front of the yurt.

The Skiing

The terrain around Stateline presents a menu of adventures. Due to unfavorable snowpack conditions and temperatures, my crew opted for a luxurious day of hot laps straight from the porch into the North Fork of the Salmon River drainage. After a few turns down from the yurt, an open slope to the west is the perfect canvas for a skin track, and a 15-20 minute climb will get you to the top of the ridge, from which pillow lines, tight trees and an old burn scar present endless options. From here the yurt is only a quick climb away, making for an easy indoor lunch break and hot toddy warm-up.

For those looking for a longer line, the Saddle Mountain summit is roughly 1,200 feet above the yurt and directly to the north on the Montana side. Depending on conditions, Saddle is said to deliver excellent turns and crisp views of the Bitterroot Range to the north. Other options abound in this area, and a morning group map study can yield any number of routes to fill your days at Stateline. Wherever you choose to go, this area is famous for its cold smoke powder, so bring your snorkel.

The Apres

For me, winter yurt trips are as much about time with friends before and after skiing as they are about scenic skins and fresh turns. In fact, I probably spend more time planning for yurt time as I do for time on the snow, which means I don’t pack light. I’m more than willing to endure that torturous inbound tour if it means I can serve up fun cocktails, homemade meals and party flair to my friends. On my Stateline trip, I was lucky to have my former bartending friend along to whip up the best old fashioneds I’ve ever had, and we each ate our share of pasta and then some thanks to the Bolognese I prepared and froze at home before the trip. When the days are cold, which they are likely to be, a hot toddy or tea is the ideal warm-up. If you haven’t figured this out yet, it’s easier to haul a pint of whiskey than a six-pack of beer. What can I say—we all choose to sacrifice our weight in different categories.

Add-Ons

Especially if you’re traveling to Stateline from farther away, consider folding some of these worthy additions into your itinerary to make the most of the trip.

Lost Trail Ski Area: This one is worth mentioning again. Especially if you’re used to bigger resort skiing like me, Lost Trail offers a refreshingly laid-back atmosphere without sparing the quality of skiing. It truly doesn’t get much better than making a new friend on the chair and then sharing pow turns in the Hollywood Bowl. Because it’s closed mid-week, Lost Trail celebrates Powder Thursdays. If you can, schedule night one of your Stateline trip on a Thursday for fresh Lost Trail turns during the day and the benefit of riding the chair up at the end of the day to head out to the yurt.

Bitterroot Brewing: If you’re traveling home north through the Bitterroot Valley, put off unloading your wet gear an hour longer and enjoy a bite and a brew at Bitterroot Brewing in Hamilton, Montana. I like the Snow Church milkshake IPA and the pickle-brined fried chicken sandwich.

Antler Saloon: If you’re heading back toward the Big Hole Valley, grab a stool at the Antler Saloon in Wisdom, Montana, a bar that boasts: “This is the real deal! Cowboys, truckers, ranchers & all the locals stop by here. Montana’s best pie!”

Hot Springs: If you’re feeling a little sore and a little chilled from touring, opt for a soak at one of the many nearby hot springs. Depending on which way you’re heading, check out Montana’s developed Lost Trail Hot Springs, Jackson Hot Springs or Elkhorn Hot Springs, or consider hiking into the beautiful Goldbug Hot Springs in Idaho.

If You Go

Book early! Stateline is a gem, but it’s no secret. Reservations fill up fast, so plan ahead and make that booking! You won’t regret it.

Plan for the worst conditions. As Wilderness River Outfitters says, “It’s called Lost Trail for a reason!” This area has great skiing because it receives so much snow, but this also means blizzards are frequent, temps can drop quickly, and wind is inevitable. Pack your usual layers, and then maybe some more. Gear gets wet quickly, and you won’t regret having a dry (ideally wool) base layer when you start your tour back out, or an extra fleece or puffy even for hanging at the yurt.

Take safety seriously. While Stateline is just a quick tour from Lost Trail, the yurt and the surrounding skiing are in backcountry terrain. Check the avalanche report for the area leading up to your trip, and have the latest report available when you head in. The area is forecasted by Missoula Avalanche. When narrowing your invite list, choose friends who are knowledgeable backcountry partners (bonus points if they know how to make fun cocktails and own colorful wigs).

Use Wilderness River Outfitters resources. Your trip to Stateline will kick off with a mandatory orientation with Jonas Seiler, the yurt manager, at the base of Lost Trail. In addition to getting us briefed, Seiler was stoked to answer our questions and send us off on the right note. I’d also recommend downloading and possibly printing WRO’s maps of the surrounding area. Cell service is partially available but limited at the yurt itself, so prep what you need to navigate to the yurt and around the yurt ahead of time. An emergency communication device, like a Garmin inReach, is highly recommended. WRO also provides a great packing list and rundown of what the space includes.

Take a moment for gratitude. Even if you’re lucky enough to be out there for more than a single night, your time at Stateline will fly by. Whether it’s a solo moment on the porch or a beat on the skin track, make an intention to take a moment to appreciate the special place around you, and the people you’re sharing it with.

Bella Butler Bella Butler is a splitboarder and wig aficionado. She is the managing editor of Mountain Outlaw.